Textile Glossary – X-Y-Z

X
XANTHATING: A process in rayon manufacture in which carbon disulfide is reacted with alkali cellulose to produce bright orange cellulose xanthate.
XENON-ARC LAMP: A type of light source used in fading lamps. It is an electric discharge in an atmosphere on xenon gas at a little below atmospheric pressure, contained in a quartz tube.
Y
YARDAGE: The amount or length of a fabric expressed in yards. YARD GOODS: Fabric sold on a retail basis by the running yard.
YARN: A generic term for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric. Yarn occurs in the following forms: (1) a number of fibers twisted together (spun yarn); (2) a number of filaments laid together without twist (a zero-twist yarn); (3) a number of filaments laid together with a degree of twist; (4) a single filament with or without twist (a monofilament); or (5) a narrow strip of material, such as paper, plastic film, or metal foil, with or without twist, intended for use in a textile construction.

YARN CONSTRUCTION: A term used to indicate the number of singles yarns and the number of strands combined for form each successive unit of a plied yarn or cord.
YARN DYEING: See DYEING.
YARN DYEING DIFFERENCES: Variations in take-up of dyes by yarns, resulting in streaks in finished fabrics.
YARN INTERMEDIATE: A generic term for products obtained during the conversion of fibers to yarn, including card webs, laps, slivers, rovings, and tops.
YARN NUMBER: A relative measure of the fineness of yarns. Two classes of systems are in use: (1) Direct yarn number (equal to linear density) is the mass per unit length of yarn. This system is used for silk and manufactured filament yarns. (2) Indirect yarn number (equal to the reciprocal of linear density) is the length per unit mass of yarn. This system is used for cotton, linen, and wool-type spun yarns. (Also see COTTON COUNT.)
YARN NUMBER, EQUIVALENT SINGLE: The number of a plied yarn or cord determined by the standard methods used for singles yarns.
YARN QUALITY: Various grades of yarn designated by the producer with respect to performance characteristics, e.g., first quality, second quality, etc.
YARN-TO-CORD CONVERSION EFFICIENCY: In tire cord, this is a measurement relating tensile strength of untwisted yarn to tensile strength of cord. Increasing cord twist or increasing yarn diameter lowers conversion efficiency.
YARN VARIATION: See RING.
YELLOWNESS COEFFICIENT: Measure of the color of a molded acetate disc or dope solution. Cy = 1-T4400/T6400 where Cy is the yellowness coefficient; T4400 is the transmission at 4400A (blue); and _T6400 is the transmission at 6400A (orange).
YIELD: 1. Number of linear or square yards of fabric per pound of fiber or yarn. 2. The number of finished square yards per pound of greige fabric.
YIELD POINT: Point on the stress-strain curve where the load and elongation stop being directly proportional. (Also see ELASTIC LIMIT.)
YOUNG’S MODULUS: A property of perfectly elastic materials, it is the ratio of change in stress to change in strain within the elastic limits of the material. The ratio is calculated from the stress expressed in force per unit cross sectional area, and the strain expressed as a fraction of the original length. Modulus so calculated is equivalent to the force required to strain the sample 100% of its original length, at the rate prevailing below the elastic limit.
Z

ZEIN FIBER: A manufactured fiber of regenerated protein derived from maize. ZERO-TWIST: Twistless, devoid of twist.
Z-TWIST: See TWIST, DIRECTION OF.

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Textile Glossary – U-V-W

U
ULTIMATE TENSILE STRENGTH: See TENSIL STRENGTH. ULTRASONIC QUILTING: See PINSONIC® THERMAL JOINING MACHINE.
ULTRAVIOLET DEGRADATION: Weakening or deterioration caused by exposure to ultraviolet rays of sunlight or artificial light.
ULTRAVIOLET RESISTANCE: Ability to retain strength and resist deterioration on exposure to sunlight.
UNCRIMPING ENERGY: See CRIMP ENERGY.
UNDRAWN TOW: See DRAWN TOW.
UNDRAWN YARN: Extruded yarn (filaments), the component molecules of which are substantially unoriented. Undrawn yarn exhibits predominantly plastic flow in the initial stages of stretching and represents an intermediate stage in the production of a manufactured yarn.
UNEVEN DYEING: A fabric dyeing that shows variations in shade resulting from incorrect processing or dyeing methods or from use of faulty materials.
UNEVEN SHRINKAGE: A wavy, warpwise condition in the fabric that prevents it from lying flat on a horizontal surface.

UNEVEN SURFACE: An irregular surface characterized by nonuniformity in the physical configuration of the yarns or fibers making up the surface of the fabric.
UNEVEN YARN: A yarn that varies in diameter to an abnormal degree.
UNFINISHED WORSTED: A worsted fabric with a relatively soft hand and a light nap. UNIDIRECTIONAL FABRIC: A fabric having reinforcing fibers in only one direction.
UNION CLOTH: A term describing a fabric woven from two or more types of yarn. For example, a union cloth may have a cotton warp and a wool filling. (Also see COMBINATION FABRIC.)
UNION DYEING: See DYEING.
UNOPENED STAPLE: Staple fiber in bunches or clusters in the bale in such a condition that it will not process smoothly through carding and subsequent operations in the spun-yarn plant.
UNRELAXED YARN: See RELAXED YARN.
UPDRAFT METIER: A dry spinning machine in which the air flow within the drying cabinet is countercurrent to the yarn path (upward).
UPTWISTER: A machine used for twisting yarns in an upward path from a rotating vertical supply package to a horizontal take-up package. Used for spun yarns and to a small extent for adding twist to some filament yarns.
UPTWISTING: The process of twisting yarn on the uptwister. The yarn to be twisted, which has been wound on a balanced support package, is placed on a revolving spindle. The yarn form the revolving supply package is fed upward through a gathering eye or guide, over a stop motion and a tension bar or bars, through a traversing guide, and onto the revolving collecting package.
URETHANE: The name of a group of organic chemical compounds or resins built from isocyanate, a very reactive material that liberates gas during reaction to produce foams of various types. Two types of compounds that react with isocyanate to form foam are polyesters and polyethers. Polyurethanes are used for foams and in other compounds in fiber form. The polyester variety should not be confused with polyester fibers. (Also see SPANDEX FIBER.)
USTER TESTER: An instrument that provides a continuous measurement of the variation in weight per unit length of sliver, roving, and yarn.
UV ABSORBERS: Polymer additives that absorb light in the UV region or that trap radicals produced in fiber during photooxidation. They provide stabilization against actinic degradation. Some critical applications include geotextiles, recreational surface polymers and fibers, tenting tarpaulins, etc.

V
VARIANT: A manufactured fiber modified in polymer configuration or by additive during manufacture, resulting in a change in the properties of the fiber. Examples are flame-retardant variants, deep-dyeing variants, high-tenacity variants, low-pilling variants, and cotton-blending or wool-blending variants.
VAT DYES: See DYES.
V-BED FLAT-KNITTING MACHINE: A latch-needle weft-knitting machine with two needlebeds at a 90° angle to each other in the form of an inverted V. Each needlebed is at a 45° angle to the horizontal. These machines are used primarily to produce collars, sleeves, sweater strips, and rib trims.
VEGETABLE FIBER: A textile fiber of vegetable origin, such as cotton, kapok, jute, ramie, and flax.
VELOUR: 1. Generally, a soft, closely woven fabric with a short, thick pile, weighting about 10 to 20 ounces per yard and made in a plain or satin weave. Velour is usually made of cotton or wool, or with a cotton warp in wool, silk, or mohair velour. It is also made in blends of spun manufactured fiber and wool. Velours are used for coats, draperies, upholstery, powder puffs, and other pile items. 2. A felt with velvet-like texture used for men’s and women’s hats.
VELVET CARPET: A woven carpet in which the pile ends are lifted over wires that are inserted in the same manner as the filling and that cut the pile as they are withdrawn.
VELVETEEN: A fabric with a low filling pile made by cutting an extra set of filling yarns woven in a float formation and bound to the back of the material at intervals by weaving over and under one or more warp ends.
VELVET FABRIC: A warp-pile woven fabric with short, dense cut pile that produces a rich fabric appearance and soft texture. Two methods are used for weaving velvets. In the double-cloth method, two fabrics are woven face to face with the pile ends interlocking. A reciprocating knife cuts through these pile ends to produce two separate pieces of velvet. In the second method, pile ends are lifted over cutting wires that are inserted with the filling and that are withdrawn to cut the pile. Velvet is produced in a wide range of constructions and types. Originally made of silk, but now also of cotton or manufactured fibers giving fabrics that are sometimes washable. The fabric can be specially finished to make it crush-resistant and water-repellent or it may be embossed or patterned by burn-out printing.
VERTICAL FLAME TEST: See FLAMMABILITY TESTS.
VIBROSCOPE: An instrument for determining the mass per unit length of a fiber.
VINAL FIBER: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 50% by weight of vinyl alcohol units and in which the

total of the vinyl alcohol units and any one or more of the various acetal units is at least 85% by weight of the fiber (FTC definition). Vinal fibers show good chemical resistance but soften at comparatively low temperatures. Vinal fibers are used for apparel, industrial goods, and fishnets.
VINYL: A univalent radical, (CH2=CH-), derived from ethylene.
VINYLIDENE CHLORIDE: A chemical material obtained from ethylene, a petroleum product, and from chlorine. It is used for the manufacture of textile monofilaments and film. It is more commonly identified in the U.S. as saran. (Also see SARAN FIBER.)
VINYON FIBER: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of vinyl chloride units (FTC definition).
VISCOMETER: A device designed to measure the viscosity (resistance to flow) of the fluid. Many types exist from simple calibrated glass tubes to extensively instrumented, on-line shear viscometers.
VISCOSE PROCESS: 1. One of the methods of producing rayon. (Also see RAYON FIBER). 2. The chemical process used in the manufacture of cellophane. (Also see VISCOSE SOLUTION).
VISCOSE RAYON: One type of rayon. It is produced in far greater quantity than cuprammonium rayon, the other commercial type. (Also see RAYON FIBER.)
VISCOSE SOLUTION: The solution obtained by dissolving cellulose xanthate in caustic soda, from which viscose filaments and cellophane are produced.
VISCOSITY: The internal flow resistance of a fluid. (Also see INTRINSIC VISCOSITY and RELATIVE VISCOSITY.)
VOILE FABRIC: A sheer spun cloth that is lightweight and soft. It is usually made with cylindrical, combed yarn. Voile is used for blouses, children’s wear, draperies, bedspreads, etc.
VOLATILE: Readily vaporized at a relatively low temperature.
VOLATILITY: Property of having a low boiling point or temperature of sublimation at normal pressure. Likewise, having a high vapor pressure at ambient conditions.
VOLUME RESISTIVITY: The ration of the potential gradient parallel to the direction of current flow in a compound to the current density after a specified time of voltage application.
VULCANIZATION: See CURING, 2.
W
WALE: 1. In knit fabrics, a column of loops lying lengthwise in the fabric. The number of wales per inch is a measure of the fineness of the fabric. 2. In woven fabrics, one of a series of ribs, cords, etc., running either warpwise or fillingwise.
WARP: 1. The set of yarn in all woven fabrics, that runs lengthwise and parallel to the selvage and is interwoven with the filling. 2. The sheet of yarns wound together on a beam for the purpose of weaving or warp knitting. (Also see WARP SHEET.)
WARP BEAM: A large spool or flanged cylinder around which the warp threads, or ends, are wound in a uniform and parallel arrangement. (Also see BEAM.)
WARP-DRAWING: See DRAW-WARPING. Warp-drawn fibers may be taken up on packages other than beams.
WARP HOLDING PLACE: See STICKER, 1. WARPING: See BEAMING.
WARP-KNIT FABRIC: A fabric that is knit with the yarns running lengthwise, e.g., tricot, milanese, and Raschel.
WARP KNITTING: See KNITTING, 1.
WARP PILE: The extra set of warp yarns that forms the surface in a double-woven pile fabric, including types such as velvet and velour. Upholstery fabrics such as mohair, plush, and friezé are produced by this method. (Also see PILE and VELVET FABRIC.)
WARP PRINTING: See PRINTING.
WARP SHEET: A sheet comprising up to several thousand ends that are combined to make up the warp during preparation for weaving or warp knitting. (Also see WARP.)
WARP SIZING: See SLASHING.
WARP STREAKS: A fabric fault that shows as bands or streaks running warpwise. Warp streaks should not be confused with reed marks.

WASH-AND-WEAR: A generic term applied to garments that satisfactorily retain their original neat appearance after repeated wear and home laundering with little or no pressing or ironing. A wash-and-wear garment is essentially free from undesirable wrinkles both during wear and after laundering and retains any original pressed-in creases or pleats. The garments should meet normal consumer demands for durability, color, stability, and shrinkage. The performance of a wash-and-wear fabric or garment depends on several factors, including the types and amounts (percentages) of fibers used, the fabric construction, the finishing treatment, the presence of a colored pattern (either woven or printed), and the methods used for washing and drying. These factors determine, in any specific instance, if a fabric or garment’s performance will meet
customer requirements. Variable conditions result in the varying behavior of a specific fabric or garment. Garments are labeled to specify the appropriate care for optimal performance. (Also see EASE-OF-CARE and DURABLE PRESS.)
WASHFASTNESS: The resistance of a dyed fabric to loss of color or change in properties during home or commercial laundering.
WASTE: By-products created in the manufacture of fibers, yarns, and fabrics. WATER IMBIBITION: See IMBIBITION.
WATER-JET LOOM: See JET LOOM.
WATERLESS DYEING: See DYEING, Solvent Dyeing.
WATERPROOF: A term applied to materials that are impermeable to water; waterproof fabrics have had all their pores closed and are also impermeable to air and very uncomfortable.
WATER-REPELLENT: A term applied to fabrics that can shed water but are permeable to air and comfortable to wear. These fabrics are produced by treating the material with a resin, wax, or plastic finish that is not completely permanent.
WAVY CLOTH: See BAGGY CLOTH.
WAVY SELVAGE: See SLACK SELVAGE.
WEAK WEB: A web of fiber that, when being transferred from the card doffer to the calender rolls to form sliver, does not have sufficient strength from fiber cohesion or clinging entanglement to hold itself together while forming a continuous bridge in processing.
WEAK YARN: A yarn that is found to be either below standard breaking specifications or to be weak enough to cause an abnormally high degree of stops in textile processing.
WEAR TEST: A test for fabric wear, abrasion, flexibility, washing, crushing, creasing, etc., in which the fabric is made into a garment, worn for a specific time, then assessed for performance.
WEATHER-OMETER: An instrument used in measuring the weather resistance of textiles. It can simulate various weather conditions such as sunlight, rain, dew, and thermal shock. Weathering is accelerated to the degree that the effects of years of normal use are attained in only a few days.
WEAVE: A system or pattern of intersecting warp and filling yarns. There are three basic two dimensional weaves: plain, twill, and satin. All other weaves are derived from one or more of these types. (Also see PLAIN WEAVE, TWILL WEAVE, and SATIN WEAVE.)
WEAVING: The method or process of interlacing two yarns of similar materials so that they cross each other at right angles to produce woven fabric. The warp yarns, or ends, run lengthwise in the fabric, and the filling threads (weft), or picks, run from side to side. Weaving can be done on a power or handloom or by several hand methods. (Also see LOOM and WOVEN FABRIC.)
WEB: 1. The wide film of fibers that is delivered from the card. 2. A similar product of other web-forming equipment, such as that formed by air deposition and used to make nonwoven fabrics. 3. A term loosely used for lightweight nonwoven fabrics. 4. See WEBBING.
WEBBING: Strong, narrow fabric, closely woven in a variety of weaves and principally used for belts and straps that have to withstand strain (e.g., automobile seat belts, reinforcement of upholstery, suspenders, etc.). Elastic webbing is made with spandex or rubber yarns in part of the warp or filling, or both. (Also see WEB, 2.)
WEFT: See FILLING:
WEFT INSERTION: 1. Any one of the various methods, shuttle, rapier, water jet, etc., for making a pick during weaving. 2. A marriage of warp knitting and weaving brought about by inserting a length of yarn across the width of the knitting elements and fastening the weft yarn between the needle loop and the underlap. (Also see METAP WEAVE-KNIT PROCESS.)

WEFT-KNIT FABRIC: See CIRCULAR-KNIT FABRIC and FLAT-KNIT FABRIC.

WEFT KNITTING: See KNITTING, 2.
WEIGHTED SILK: Silk that has been treated with metallic salts during dyeing and finishing to increase the fabric’s weight and improve its drape. Over-weighting can cause deterioration of the fabric.
WELT: 1. A finished edge on knit goods, especially hosiery. In women’s stockings, it is a wide band knitted from heavier yarn than the leg and folded on itself. 2. A small cord covered with fabric and sewn along a seam or border to add strength. 3. A seam made by folding the fabric double, generally over a cord, and sewing it. 4. A term sometimes used for piqué.
WET FORMING: The production of a nonwoven fabric web from an aqueous suspension of fibers by filtering the short fibers onto a screen belt or perforated drum.
WET-LAID NONWOVEN: Fabric made by the wet-forming process. The short fibers typically have more random orientation in the web and the web has more isotropic properties than carded webs.

WET SPINNING: See SPINNING, 2.
WET STRENGTH: The measurement of the strength of a material when it is saturated with water, normally relative to the dry strength.

WHIPCORD: A compact woven fabric having a very steep twill on the face of the goods. Whipcord is used in dress woolens, worsteds, or wool blends and in many types of uniforms. WHIPPED CREAM: A type of crepe fabric produced from false-twist­textured polyester yarn.

WHIPPED-IN FILLING: See PULLED-IN FILLING. WHISKERS: Fine fibrils or crystals from polymers, metals, etc.
WHITE GOODS: A broad term describing any goods that have been finished in the white conditions.
WICKING: 1. Cord, loosely woven or braided tape, or tubing to be cut into wicks. 2. Dispersing or spreading of moisture or liquid through a given area, vertically or horizontally; capillary action in material.
WIDTH: A horizontal measurement of a material. In woven fabric, it is the distance from selvage to selvage, and in flat-knit fabric, the distance from edge to edge.
WILLIAMS UNIT: A wet-processing unit for open-width processing of fabric. The fabric passes up and down over rollers in the liquor. The unit is widely used for dyeing, washing, pretreating, and aftertreating.
WILTON CARPET: Woven carpet in which the pile yarns are woven in as an integral part of the carpet, being held in place by the filling, usually made on a loom with a Jacquard head. The pile may be formed by wires and hooks or by weaving between two backings, in which case, the pile ends are cut to form two separate carpets. Wilton carpets are made in two types: (1) cut pile, e.g., tournia, Wilton moquette, plush, and velvet, and (2) loop pile, e.g., Brussels.

WINCH: See BECK.
WINDING: Winding is the process of transferring yarn or thread from one type of package to another to facilitate subsequent processing. The rehandling of yarn is an integral part of the fiber and textile industries. Not only must the package and the yarn itself be suitable for processing on the next machine in the production process, but also other factors such as packing cases, pressure due to winding tension, etc., must be considered. Basically, there are two types of winding machines: precision winders and drum winders. Precision widers, used primarily for filament yarn, have a traverse driven by a cam that is synchronized with the spindle and produce packages with a diamond-patterned wind. Drum winders are used principally for spun yarns; the package is driven by frictional contact between the surface of the package and the drum.
WINDOW PANING: A fabric defect caused by nonuniform yarn. When thin sections of yarn become grouped together, the resultant increase in the transparency of the fabric is called window paning.
WIND RATIO: The number of wraps that an end or ends make in traversing from one side of a wound package to the other side and back to the first side.
WOOD GRAIN: A fabric defect that consists of fillingwise streaks resembling the irregular appearance of wood grain in lumber. Wood grain is usually caused by strained filling in quilling, the tension being more pronounced near the butt of the quill.
WOOD PULP: The cellulosic raw material for viscose rayon and for acetate.
WOOF: See FILLING.

WOOL: The term is usually used for the fleece of sheep, but according to the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, wool is defined for purposes of labeling as: “The fiber from the fleece of the sheep or lamb or hair of the Angora or Cashmere goat (and may include the so- called specialty fibers from the hair of the camel, alpaca, llama, and vicuna) which has never been reclaimed from any woven or felted wool product.”
Wool is used in a variety of blends in which it is combined with nearly all natural or manufactured fibers. Wool fibers have scales that tend to interlock with each other, binding the fibers together. This process is called felting. In blends, particularly those with manufactured fibers, wool is used to improve the feel or appearance of finished products. Manufactured fibers are sometimes blended with wool to enable the spinning of very fine or loosely twisted yarns with increased tensile strength or to produce ease-of-care properties. Wool can be treated to control shrinkage, to provide resistance to damage by moths, to impart stain-resistance, and to set permanent creases in fabrics.
WOOLEN CARD: A type of roller card used in the woolen spinning system, usually consisting of three cards in tandem: the breaker, intermediate, and finisher sections.
WOOLEN COUNT: The two systems used to determine woolen yarn counts in the U.S. are the run system and the cut system. The run system has a standard of 1600 yards per hand, while the cut system is based on 300 yards per hank.
WOOLEN CUT: A woolen yarn measure. A 1-cut woolen yarn has 300 yards in one pound of yarn.
WOOLEN RUN: A woolen yarn measure. A 1-run woolen yarn has 1,600 yards in one pound of yarn, a 2-run yarn has 3,200 yards, and so on.
WOOLEN SYSTEM: The fundamental system of making yarns for woolen fabrics. In yarns spun on the woolen system, the fibers are not parallel but are crossed in what appears to be a haphazard arrangement. After blending, fibers produced on the woolen system are evenly distributed in carding on two, three, or even four cards. From here, the split web, called roving, goes to the spinning frame. In addition to wool, manufactured fibers, cotton, wastes, and noils can be processed on the woolen system. In general, the fibers used are shorter and more highly crimped than those used on the worsted system and are of the type that can be fulled.
WORKING LOSS: The irrecoverable loss of weight or yardage of a textile material that occurs during a textile process.
WORK RECOVERY: The ratio of recoverable work to the total work required to strain a fiber a specified amount under a given program of strain rate.
WORK-TO-BREAK: See ENERGY-TO-BREAK.
WORSTED: A general term applied to fabrics and yarns from combed wool and wool blends. Worsted yarn is smooth-surfaced, and spun from evenly combed long staple. Worsted fabric is made from worsted yarns and is tightly woven with a smooth, hard surface, Gabardine and serge are examples of worsted fabrics.
WORSTED CARD: A type of roller card user for worsted-system processing. It usually comprises two cards in tandem; the unit has a roller that carries the stock from the first card to the feed-in of the second card.
WORSTED COUNT: A woolen yarn measure. A 1’s worsted yarn has 560 yards in one pound of yarn.
WORSTED SYSTEM: A system of textile processing for manufacturing spun yarns from staple fibers usually over 3 inches in length. The main operations are carding, combing, drafting, and spinning. There are three basic systems of worsted yarn spinning: the Bradford (or English system), the French (Alsatian or Continental system), and the American system.
WOVEN FABRIC: Generally used to refer to fabric composed of two sets of yarns, warp and filling, that is formed weaving, which is the interlacing of these sets of yarns. However, there are woven fabrics in which three sets of yarn are used to give a triaxial weave. In two-dimensional wovens, there may be two or more warps and fillings in a fabric, depending on the complexity of the construction. The manner in which the two sets of yarns are interlaced determines the weave. By using various combinations of the three basic weaves, plain, twill, and satin, it is possible to produce an almost unlimited variety of constructions. Other effects may be obtained by varying the type of yarns, filament or spun, and the fiber types, twist levels, etc.
WRINKLE MARK: See SEAM MARK.
WRINKLE RECOVERY: That property of a fabric that enables it to recover from folding deformations.
WRINKLE RESISTANCE: That property of a fabric that enables it to resist the formation of wrinkles when subjected to a folding deformation. Wrinkle resistance in a fabric is a desirable attribute, but it is not easily measured quantitatively. Wrinkle resistance varies from quite low in many fabrics to very high in resilient fabrics. In order to form a wrinkle, a fabric’s wrinkle resistance must be overcome. The fabric may, however, produce strains and store potential energy that can become evident as wrinkle recovery under suitable conditions.
WRONG COLOR PICK: See MIXED END or FILLING.
WRONG PICK: See MISPICK.

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Textile Glossary - T

T
TABLET TEST: See FLAMMABILITY TESTS, Methanamine Pill Test. TACKINESS: The property of being sticky or adhesive.
TACTIC POLYMER: A polymer whose molecular structure exhibits regularity or symmetry of non-backbone side groups rather than random ordering. (Also see ATACTIC POLYMER, ISOTACTIC POLYMER, and SYNDIOTACTIC POLYMER.)
TAFFETA: A plain-weave fabric with a fine, smooth, crisp hand and usually a lustrous appearance. Taffeta fabric usually has a fine cross rib made by using a heavier filling yarn than warp yarn. Taffetas are produced in solid colors, yarn-dyed plaids and stripes, and prints. Changeable and moiré effects are often employed. Although originally made of silk, manufactured fibers are now often used in the production of taffeta.
TAK DYEING: See KUSTERS DYEING RANGE.

TAKE-UP (TWIST): The change in length of a filament, yarn, or cord caused by twisting, expressed as a percentage of the original (untwisted) length.
TAKE-UP (YARN-IN-FABRIC): The difference in distance between two points in a yarn as it lies in a fabric and the same two points after the yarn has been removed from the fabric and straightened under specified tension, expressed as a percentage of the straightened length. In this sense, take-up is contrasted to the crimp of a yarn in a fabric, which is expressed as a percentage of the distance between the two points in the yarn as it lies in the fabric. Take-up is generally used in connection with greige fabric.
TANGENT MODULUS: The ratio of change in stress to change in strain derived from the tangent to any point on a stress-stain curve.
TANGLELACED FABRIC: See SPUNLACED FABRIC.
TAPE: 1. A narrow, woven fabric not over 8 inches in width. 2. In slide fasteners, a strip of material, along one edge of which the bead and scoops are attached, the bead sometimes being integral with the strip. (Also see SLIT TAPE and NONELASTIC WOVEN TAPE.)
TAPE YARN: See SLIT-FILM YARN.
TARE: The weight of all external and internal packing material (including bobbins, tubes, etc.) of a case, bale, or other type of container.
TARPAULIN: Water-resistant fabric used to protect loads or materials from the elements. May be a coated fabric, a fabric with waterproof finish, or a fabric that is tightly constructed to prevent water penetration.
TASLIN® PROCESS: See TEXTURING, Air Jet Method.
TEAR STRENGTH: The force required to begin or to continue a tear in a fabric under specified conditions.
TEASEL BURR: See NAPPING.
TEMPERATURE OF ZERO BIREFRINGENCE: The temperature at which the refractive indexes of a material are equal in two perpendicular directions (longitudinally and transversely for a fiber).
TENACITY: The tensile stress when expressed as force per unit linear density of the unstrained specimen (e.g., grams-force per denier or newtons per tex). (Also see BREAKING TENACITY.)
TENCEL®: Registered trademark of Tencel, Inc. for their brand of cellulosic staple fiber classified as lyocell. See LYOCELL FIBER.
TENSILE FACTOR: The empirical factor T x _E1/2 that describes the tenacity elongation exchange relationship for a large number of manufactured fiber systems.
TENSILE HYSTERESIS CURVE: A complex load-elongation, or stress-strain curve obtained: (1) when a specimen is successively subjected to the application of a load or stress less than that causing rupture and to the removal of the load or stress according to a predetermined procedure; or (2) when a specimen is stretched less than the breaking elongation and allowed to relax by removal of the strain according to a predetermined procedure.
TENSILE RECOVERY CURVE: See TENSILE HYSTERESIS CURVE.
TENSILE STRAIN: The relative length deformation exhibited by a specimen subjected to a tensile force. Strain may be expressed as a fraction of the nominal gauge length or as a percentage. (Also see ELONGATION.)
TENSILE STRENGTH: 1. In general, the strength shown by a specimen subjected to tension as distinct from torsion, compression, or shear. 2. Specifically, the maximum tensile stress expressed in force per unit cross-sectional area of the unstrained specimen, e.g., kilograms per square millimeter, pounds per square inch. (For maximum stress per unit linear density, see BREAKING TENACITY or BREAKING LENGTH.)
TENSILE STRESS: The resistance to deformation developed within a specimen subjected to tension by external force. The tensile stress is commonly expressed in two ways, either as (1) the tensile strength, i.e., the force per unit cross-sectional area of the unstrained specimen, or as (2) tenacity, i.e., the force per unit linear density of the unstrained specimen. The latter is more frequently used in textile testing.
TENSILE TEST: A method of measuring the resistance of a yarn or fabric to a force tending to stretch the specimen in one direction.
TENTER FRAME: A machine that dries fabric to a specified width under tension. The machine consists essentially of a pair of endless chains on horizontal tracks. The fabric is held firmly at the edges by pins or clips on the two chains that diverge as they advance through the heated chamber, adjusting the fabric to the desired width.
TENTER MARK: See CLIP MARK.
TEREPHTHALIC ACID: Para-phthalic acid, [C6H4(COOH)2]. Used to produce polyester resins, fibers, and films by combination with glycols.
TERPOLYMER: A product of the polymerization of three different monomers.
TERRY CLOTH: A cotton or cotton-blend fabric having uncut loops on one or both sides. Made on a dobby loom with a terry arrangement or on a Jacquard loom. It is used for toweling, beach robes, etc.
TERTIARY COLORS: Shades that are obtained by mixing the three primary colors or by mixing one or more of the secondary colors with gray or black.
TETRACHLORIDE: A chloride, such as carbon tetrachloride, containing four atoms of chlorine.
TETRAFLUOROETHYLENE FIBER: See POLYTETRAFLUOROETHYLENE FIBER.
TEX: 1. A unit for expressing linear density, equal to the weight in grams of 1 kilometer of yarn, filament, fiber, or other textile strand. 2. The system of yarn numbering based on the use of tex units. (Also see YARN NUMBER.)
TEXTILE: Originally, a woven fabric; now applied generally to any one of the following: 1. Staple fibers and filaments suitable for conversion to or use as yarns, or for the preparation of woven, knit, or nonwoven fabrics. 2. Yarns made from natural or manufactured fibers. 3. Fabrics and other manufactured products made from fibers as defined above and from yarns. 4. Garments and other articles fabricated from fibers, yarns, or fabrics when the products retain the characteristic flexibility and drape of the original fabrics.
TEXTILE MATERIALS: A general term for fibers, yarn intermediates, yarn, fabrics, and products made from fabrics that retain more or less completely the strength, flexibility, and other typical properties of the original fiber or filaments.
TEXTILE PROCESSING: Any mechanical operation used to translate a textile fiber or yarn to a fabric or other textile material. This includes such operations as opening, carding, spinning, plying, twisting, texturing, coning, quilling, beaming, slashing, weaving, and knitting.
TEXTURE: A term describing the surface effect of a fabric, such as dull, lustrous, wooly, stiff, soft, fine, coarse, open, or closely woven; the structural quality of a fabric.
TEXTURED: An adjective used to describe continuous filament manufactured yarns (and woven and knit fabrics made therefrom) that have been crimped or have had random loops imparted, or that have been otherwise modified to create a different surface texture. (Also see TEXTURED YARNS and TEXTURING.)
TEXTURED YARNS: Yarns that develop stretch and bulk on subsequent processing. When woven or knitted into fabric, the cover, hand, and other aesthetics of the finished fabric better resemble the properties of a fabric constructed from spun yarn. (Also see TEXTURING.)
1. Bulked Yarn: Qualitative term to describe a textured yarn. A bulked yarn develops more bulk than stretch in the finished fabric.
2. Coil Yarn: A textured yarn that takes on a coil or spiral configuration when further processed. A coil yarn can be either a torque yarn or a nontorque yarn. A coil yarn can be formed by the false twist or edge crimp methods. Some bilateral fibers become coiled on further processing.
3. Core-Bulked Yarn: A bulky or textured yarn composed of two sets of filaments, one of which is straight to give dimensional stability and forms a core around and through which the other set is coiled or looped to give bulk.
4. Crinkle Yarn: A torque-free textured yarn that is characterized by periodic wave configurations. Crinkle yarns can be formed by the stuffer box, gear crimping, or knit-de-knit methods.
5. Entangled Yarn: A textured yarn of one variant that develops bulk by the airjet texturing method.
6. Modified Stretch Yarn: A stretch yarn that develops more bulk than usual but less bulk than a bulked yarn in the finished fabric.
7. Nontorque Yarn: A yarn that does not rotate or kink when permitted to hang freely. A nontorque yarn may be the result of plying two equal but opposite torque yarns.
8. Set Yarn: A textured yarn that is heat relaxed to reduce torque. Set yarns are not stretch yarns.
9. Stretch Yarn: Qualitative term to describe a textured yarn. A stretch yarn develops more stretch than bulk in the finished fabric.

10. Torque Yarn: When a torque yarn is permitted to hang freely, it rotates or kinks to relieve the torque introduced into the yarn during texturing.
TEXTURING: The process of crimping, imparting random loops, or otherwise modifying continuous filament yarn to increase cover, resilience, abrasion resistance, warmth, insulation, and moisture absorption or to provide a different surface texture. Texturing methods can be placed roughly into six groups. (Also see TEXTURED YARNS.)
1. Air Jet Method: In this method of texturing, yarn is led through the turbulent region of an air jet at a rate faster than it is drawn off on the far side of the jet. In the jet, the yarn structure is opened, loops are formed, and the structure is closed again. Some loops are locked inside and others are locked on the surface of the yarn. An example of this method is the Taslan process. (Also see TEXTURED YARNS, Core-Bulked Yarn and Entangled Yarn.)
2. Edge Crimping Method: In this method of texturing, thermoplastic yarns in a heated and stretched condition are drawn over a crimping edge and cooled. Edge-crimping machines are used to make Agilon yarns. (Also see TEXTURED YARNS, Coil Yarn.)
3. False-Twist Method: This continuous method for producing textured yarns utilizes simultaneous twisting, heat-setting, and untwisting. The yarn is taken from the supply package and fed at controlled tension through the heating unit, through a false-twist spindle or over a friction surface that is typically a stack of rotating discs called an aggregate, through a set of take-
up rolls, and onto a take-up package. The twist is set into the yarn by the action of the heater tube and subsequently is removed above the spindle or aggregate resulting in a group of filaments with the potential to form helical springs. Much higher processing speeds can be achieved with friction false twisting than with conventional spindle false twisting. Both stretch and bulked yarns can be produced by either process. Examples of false-twist textured yarns are Superloft®, Flufflon®, and Helanca®. (Also see TEXTURED YARNS, Coil Yarn.)
4. Gear Crimping Method: In this texturing method, yarn is fed through the meshing teeth of two gears. The yarn takes on the shape of the gear teeth. (Also see TEXTURED YARNS, Crinkle Yarn.)
5. Knit-de-Knit Method: In this method of texturing, the yarn is knit into a 2-inch diameter hose-leg, heat-set in an autoclave, and then unraveled and wound onto a final package. This texturing method produces a crinkle yarn. (Also see TEXTURED YARNS, Crinkle Yarn.)
6. Stuffer Box Method: The crimping unit consists of two feed rolls and a brass tube stuffer box. By compressing the yarn into the heated stuffer box, the individual filaments are caused to fold or bend at a sharp angle, while being simultaneously set by a heating device. (Also
see TEXTURED YARNS, Crinkle Yarn.)
THERMAL BONDING: See THERMOBONDING.
THERMAL CHARACTER: A tactile property of a textile material. It is the difference felt in the temperature of the material and the skin of the person touching it.
THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY: A measure of heat flow through a material. THERMAL FIXATION: See DYEING.
THERMALLY STABILIZED: See HEAT STABILIZED.
THERMOBONDING: A technique for bonding fibers of a web with meltable powders or fibers, using infrared heating, hot air, or hot-calendering. (Also see BONDING, Bonding with Binder Fibers and POWDER-BONDED NON-WOVEN.)
THERMOGRAVIMETRIC ANALYSIS: Analytical technique in which the rate of change in weight of a material undergoing continuous heating versus temperature is plotted. Used in analysis of polymers to provide information on such parameters as degree of crystallinity, glass transition temperature, thermal stability, etc.
THERMO-MAN: See FLAMMABILITY TEST, Thermo-Man.
THERMOPLASTIC: A term used to describe a plastic material that is permanently fusible. The term as applied to manufactured fibers describes their tendency to soften at higher temperatures.
THERMOSET: A term used to describe a plastic that, once formed, does not melt when heated. THERMOSOL PROCESS: See DYEING, Thermal Fixation.
THERMOTROPIC POLYMER: Polymer that exhibits liquid crystal formation in melt form. In thermotropic polymers there must be a balance between having the necessary degree of molecular perfection to preserve the liquid crystal formation and the amount of imperfection to permit melting at workable temperatures. These polymers give high-modulus, highly oriented, extrusion products.
THICK-AND-THIN YARN: A novelty yarn of varying thickness. THICK FILLING: See COARSE THREAD.
THIN END: See FINE END, 1.
THREAD: 1. A slender, strong strand or cord, especially one designed for sewing or other needlework. Most threads are made by plying and twisting yarns. A wide variety of thread types are in use today, e.g., spun cotton and spun polyester, core-spun cotton with a polyester filament core, polyester or nylon filaments (often bonded), and monofilament threads. 2. A general term for yarns used in weaving and knitting, as in “thread count” and “warp thread”.
THREAD COUNT: 1. The number of ends and picks per inch in a woven cloth. 2. The number of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric.
THREADED-ROLL PROCESS: A high-speed method developed by Celanese for converting crimped continuous filament tow into highly bulked, uniformly spread webs of up to 108-inch widths. The webs are useful in a variety of products, such as cigarette filters, sleeping pillows, and battings.
THREADLINES: The fiber lines of a manufactured fiber in extrusion or subsequent processes.
THREAD OUT: See END OUT.
THREADUP: The process of directing or threading fiber or fabric through all machine positions to start or restart a process, or the configuration resulting therefrom.
THREE-BAR FABRIC: A tricot fabric made on a machine equipped with three guide bars.
THREE-DIMENSIONAL WEAVING: To produce three-dimensional textiles, yarns are simultaneously woven in three directions (length, width, and thickness) rather than in the conventional two. The types of structures that can be produced fall into four broad classes: (1) contoured fabrics, (2) expandable fabrics, (3) interwoven fabrics (Also see DOUBLE WEAVE), and (4) contoured interwoven fabrics.
THROUGHPUT: The amount of raw material processed in a specific time. This is the actual amount, not a percentage.
THROWING: The operation of doubling or twisting silk or manufactured filament yarns.
THROWSTER: A company that specializes in putting additional twist in yarn. More recently, the term also applies to a company that specializes in texturing yarns.
THRUM: The fringe of warp yarns that remains on the loom when the woven fabric has been cut free.
TICKING: A durable, closely woven fabric used for covering box springs, mattresses, and pillows. Ticking may be woven in a plain, satin, or twill weave, usually with strong warp yarns and soft filling yarns.
TIE-BACK: See STICKER, 1.
TIGHT or LOOSE END: A taut or slack warp end caused by too much or too little tension on an individual end while weaving, by ridgy section or warp beams, by incorrect tensions in beaming or sizing, or as a result of faulty fabric design.
TIGHT SPOT: See TWIT.
TIME-TO-BREAK: In tensile testing, the time interval during which a specimen is under prescribed conditions of tension and is absorbing the energy required to reach maximum load.
TINT: Coloration that produces a very pale shade. A tint usually represents the minimum amount of color that will give perceptible appearance of coloration. In yarn processing, fugitive tints are used for identification, then removed in wet processing.
TIP-SHEARED CARPET: A textured pile carpet similar to a random-sheared carpet, but with a less defined surface effect.
TIRE-BUILDER FABRIC: Fabric consisting of tire cord in the warp with single yarn filling at extended intervals.
TIRE CONSTRUCTION: The geometry of the various layers of tire fabric in the final tire. Three constructions are commonly used.

1. Bias Tire: In this construction, tire fabric is laid alternately at bias angles of 25 to 40° to the tread direction. An even number of layers (or piles) is used.
2. Radial Tire: In a radial tire, tire fabric traverses the body of the tire at 90° to the tread direction. Atop the tire fabric are laid alternating narrow layers of fabric at low angles of 10 to 30° to the tread direction; the belt that is formed around the tire body restricts the movement of the body.
3. Bias/Belted Tire: This tire construction combines features of the preceding two. The first layers of fabric are identical to the bias tire. The belt is added in alternating layers at 20° to the tread direction.
TIRE CORD: A textile material used to impart the flex resistance necessary for tire reinforcement. Tire yarns of polyester, rayon, nylon, aramid, glass, or steel are twisted to 5 to 12 turns per inch. Two or more of these twisted yarns are twisted together in the opposite direction to obtain a cabled tire cord. The twist level required depends on the material, the yarn linear density, and the particular application of the cord. Normally, tire cords are twisted to about the same degree in the S and Z directions, which means that the net effect is almost zero twist in the finished cord. (Also see TIRE FABRIC.)
TIRE FABRIC: A loose fabric woven to facilitate large-scale dipping, treating, and calendering of tire cords. Usually, 15 to 35 tire cords per inch of warp are woven into a tire fabric by 2 to 5 light filling yarns per inch. In these fabrics, the strength is in the warp and the filling only holds cords in position for processing. The filling yarns are normally broken during tire molding. The warp cords are polyester, rayon, nylon, aramid, glass, or steel and range in strength from 30 pounds to over 100 pounds per cord. A 60-inch fabric would normally have a warp strength of about 7,000 pounds. Such fabrics are used for tire carcasses and tire belts. More conventional square woven fabrics are used in certain parts of a tire such as the bead, chafer, and wrapping. (Also see TIRE CORD.)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE: A compound (TiO2) that occurs naturally in three different forms (rutile, anatase, and brookite). It is used chiefly as a pigment or delusterant in paint or fiber.
TOBACCO CLOTH: A thin, lightweight, open cloth used to shade and protect tobacco plants.
TOE CLOSING: In knitting hosiery, this term refers to closing the toe opening. It may be knit closed, or in tube hosiery, sewn closed.
TOILE: 1. A broad term describing many simple plain weave twill fabrics, especially those made from linen. 2. Sheer cotton and linen fabrics.
TONGUE TEAR STRENGTH: The average force required to tear a rectangular sample with a cut in the edge at the center of the shorter side. The two tongues are gripped in a tensile tester and the force required to continue and tear is measured.
TOP: 1. A wool sliver that has been combed to straighten the fibers and to remove short fiber; an intermediate stage in the production of worsted yarn. 2. A similar untwisted strand of manufactured staple delivered by the comb or made directly from tow.
TOP COLORS: Colors used on the ground color to form a design.
TOP DYEING: 1. The process of covering with an additional dye, not necessarily of the same color or class, to obtain the desired shade. 2. Fiber in top form is placed in cans and dyed in a batch-dye vessel with reverse cycling capability. An expensive process that is used primarily for fancy yarns.
TORQUE: A force or a combination of forces that produces or tends to produce a twisting or rotating motion. In reference to yarn, torque refers to the yarn’s tendency to turn on itself, or kink, as a result of twisting.
TORQUE YARN: See TEXTURED YARNS.
TOTAL DENIER (OF TOW): The product of the denier per filament times the number of filaments in a tow.
TOUGHNESS: 1. Ability of a material to endure large deformations without rupture. 2. The actual work per unit mass required to rupture a fiber or a yarn.
TOW: A large strand of continuous manufactured fiber filaments without definite twist, collected in loose, rope-like form, usually held together by crimp. Tow is the form that most manufactured fiber reaches before being cut into staple. It is often processed on tow-conversion machinery into tops, sliver, or yarn, or on tow-opening equipment to make webs for various uses.
TRANSESTERIFICATION: In the production of polyester from dimethyl terephthalate and ethylene glycol, the process of exchanging ethylene glycol for the methyl groups to obtain bis-0- hydroxyethyl terephthalate. The methanol generated in the reaction is removed as it is formed to drive the reaction to completion.
TRANSFER TAIL: A long end of yarn wound at the base of a package that permits increased warping or transfer efficiency by

providing an easily accessible connecting point for the succeeding package.
TRANSITION TEMPERATURE: A temperature at which some radical change, usually a phase change, in the appearance or structure of a substance occurs. Examples of transition temperatures are melting point, boiling point, and second-order transition temperature.
TRAPEZOID TEAR TESTER: See ELMENDORF TEAR TESTER.
TRAPPED END: An end that is unable to unwrap or unwind from the beam. Trapping of an end may be prolonged or intermittent depending upon the cause of trapping (e.g., rolled ends at the selvage, short ends, or mechanical difficulties).
TRAVELER: A C-shaped, metal clip that revolves around the ring on a ring spinning frame. It guides the yarn onto the bobbin as twist is inserted into the yarn.
TRAVERSE LENGTH: The lateral distance between the points of reversal of the wind on a yarn package.
TRAVERSE RATIO: See WIND RATIO.
TREE BARK: A term describing the rippled or wavy effect sometimes seen when a bonded fabric is stretched in the horizontal (widthwise) direction. This defect is caused by bias tensions present when two distorted or skewed fabrics are bonded.
TRIACETATE FIBER: A manufactured fiber produced from cellulose triacetate in the forms of filament yarn, staple, and tow. Cellulose triacetate fiber differs from acetate fiber in that during its manufacture the cellulose is completely acetylated whereas acetate, which is diacetate, is only partially acetylated. The FTC notes that a fiber may be called triacetate when not less than 92% of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated. Fabrics of triacetate have higher heat resistance than acetate fabrics and can be safely ironed at higher temperatures. Triacetate fabrics that have been properly heat-set (usually after dyeing) have improved ease-of-care characteristics because of a change in the crystalline structure of the fiber. (Also see ACETATE FIBER.)
TRIACETIN: Glycerol triacetate. A type of plasticizer for acetate fibers. It is widely used to add firmness to cigarette filter rods.

TRIAXIAL FABRICS: Completely isotropic fabrics made in a weaving process employing three yarns at 60° angles to each other. These fabrics have no stretch or distortion in any direction. With equal sizes and number of yarns in all three directions, the fabric approaches equal strength and stiffness in all directions.

TRICOT: A generic term for the most common type of warp-knit fabric. It has fine wales on the face and coursewise ribs on the back. It can be made in a plain jersey construction or in meshes, stripes, and many other designs. Tricot is usually made of triacetate, acetate, polyester, nylon, or rayon. (Also see JERSEY and KNITTING, 1.)

TRICOT BEAM: A metal flanged beam, commonly 42 inches in width, on which yarn is wound for use as a supply for the tricot machine.
TRICOT FABRIC YIELD: The number of square yards per pound of greige or finished tricot fabric.
TRICOT KNITTING: See KNITTING, 1.
TRICOT SECTION: See TRICOT BEAM.
TRIMER: A polymer consisting of three monomer units. (Also see CYCLIC TRIMER.)
TRISKELION CROSS SECTION: A trilobal cross section in which the radiating arms are curved or bent. (Also see CROSS SECTION.)
TRISTIMULUS VALUES: In shade matching during dyeing, these values represent the amount of each of the three primary colors that, when mixed additively, will generate the desired shade.
TRUE TENSILE STRENGTH: The maximum tensile stress expressed in force per unit area of the specimen at the time of rupture. (Also see TENSILE STRENGTH.)
TUB: See BECK.
TUBE: 1. A cylindrical holder or bobbin used as a core for a cylindrical yarn package. 2. A cylindrical yarn package.
TUBING: A woven, knit, or braided fabric of cylindrical form, having a width of over 4 inches.
TUBULAR FABRIC: A fabric woven or knit in a tube form with no seams, such as seamless pillowcases, some knit underwear fabrics, and seamless hosiery. (Also see CIRCULAR-KNIT FABRIC.)
TUCK STITCH: A knitting stitch made when a needle receives a new yarn without losing its old loop.
TUFT: 1. A cluster of soft yarns drawn through a fabric and projecting from the surface in the form of cut yarns or loops. 2. The portion of pile-like material that comprises a tufted fabric or carpet. (Also see TUFTED FABRIC and TUFTED CARPET.)
TUFTED CARPET: Carpet produced by a tufting machine instead of a loom. It is an outgrowth of hand-tufted bedspreads. Today, broadloom tufting machines produce over 90% of all domestic carpeting. Tufting machines are essentially multineedle sewing machines that push the pile yarns through a primary backing fabric and hold them in place to form loops as the needles are withdrawn. The loops are then either released for loop-pile carpets or cut for cut-pile carpets. The pile yarns may be either predyed or uncolored, in which case, the greige carpet is then piece-dyed or printed. In either case, a latex or other binding agent is applied to the backstitch to lock the tufts in place and to secure the secondary backing fabric. Formerly, all carpets were woven, either by hand or machine. The significantly greater productivity of tufting has

revolutionized the carpet industry and made soft floor coverings available to the mass market.
TUFTED FABRIC: Cotton sheeting, lightweight duck, or other fabric decorated with fluffy tufts of multiple-ply, soft-twist cotton yarns or manufactured fiber yarns closely arranged in continuous lines or spaced at intervals to produce the type of fabric called candlewick. The tufts are inserted and cut by machine in previously woven fabric or are woven in by the loom and afterwards cut to form the tufts. They have a chenille-like softness and bulk and are erroneously called chenille. Patterns vary from simple straight lines and elaborate designs to completely covered materials resembling long pile fabrics. The may be white, solid colored, or multicolored. Tufted fabrics are used for bedspreads, bath mats, and robes, etc.
TULLE: A fine, very lightweight, machine-made net usually having a hexagonal mesh effect. Tulle is used in ballet costumes and veils.
TUNNEL TEST: See FLAMMABILITY TESTS.
TURBIDITY: The decrease in optical transparency of a solution because of the presence of particulate matter.
TURN: The distance parallel to the axis of a yarn or rope in which a strand makes one complete spiral. (Also see TWIST.)
TURNED-OVER EDGE: A curled selvage.
TWEED: An irregular, soft, flexible, unfinished, shaggy wool or wool-blend fabric made with a 2/2 twill weave. Tweeds are used in all types of coat fabrics and suitings.
TWILL WEAVE: A fundamental weave characterized by diagonal lines produced by a series of floats staggered in the warp direction. The floats are normally formed by filling (filling-faced twill). A warp-face twill is a weave in which the warp yarns produce the diagonal effect.

TWILO PROCESS: A spinning process in which yarn is made by binding fibers with an adhesive, then removing the adhesive after the yarn is made into fabric.
TWINE: 1. A plied yarn made form medium-twist single yarns with ply twist in the opposite direction. 2. A single-strand yarn, usually 3 or 4 millimeters in diameter, made of hard fibers, such as henequen, sisal, abaca, or phormium, and sufficiently stiff to perform satisfactorily on a mechanical grain binder.
TWIST: The number of turns about its axis per unit of length of a yarn or other textile strand. Twist is expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpcm).
TWIST BLEED: See TWIT.
TWIST, DIRECTION OF: The direction of twist in yarns and other textile strands is indicated by the capital letters S and Z. Yarn has S-twist if when it is held vertically, the spirals around its central axis slope in the same direction as the middle portion of the letter S, and Z-twist if they slope in the same direction as the middle portion of the letter Z. When two or more yarns, either single or plied, are twisted together, the letters S and Z are used in a similar manner to indicate the direction of the last twist inserted.
TWISTING: 1. The process of combining filaments into yarn by twisting them together or combining two or more parallel singles yarns (spun or filament) into plied yarns or cords. Cables are made by twisting plied yarns or cords. Twisting is also employed to increase strength, smoothness, and uniformity, or to obtain novelty effects in yarn. 2. A very high level of twist is added to single or plied yarns to make crepe yarns. This operation generally is called creping or throwing. 3. The process of adding twist to a filament yarn to hold the filaments together for ease in subsequent textile processing, etc.
TWIST MULTIPLIER: The ratio of turns per inch to the square root of the yarn count.
TWIST SETTING: A process for fixing twist in yarns to deaden torque and eliminate kinking during further processing. There are several methods that use steam to condition the packages of yarns.
TWIT: A short section of real twist in false-twist yarn that prevents crimp development and hence causes a pinhole effect in fabric. Also called twist bleed or tight spot.
TWO-FOR-ONE TWISTER: A twister that inserts twist at a rate of twice the spindle speed. For example, at a spindle speed of 2,000 rpm, 4,000 turns per minute are inserted in the yarn.

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Textile Glossary - S

S
SAILCLOTH: Any heavy, strongly made woven canvas of cotton, linen, jute, polyester, nylon, aramid, etc., that is used for sails. Laminated fabrics are also finding use in this market. Sailcloth is used for apparel, particularly sportswear.
SAND: Used as a filter medium in fiber manufacture, particularly used in spinning packs for nylon or polyester production.
SANDWICH BLEND: A method of preparing fiber mixtures by layering them horizontally in alternating layers with all elements in the proper proportion. Vertical sections are cut and fed to the next machine in the process, where blending is effected.
SANFORIZED®: A trademark of Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., denoting a controlled standard of shrinkage performance. Fabrics bearing this trademark will not shrink
more than 1% because they have been subjected to a method of compressive shrinkage involving feeding the fabric between a stretched blanket and a heated shoe. When the blanket is allowed to retract, the cloth is physically forced to comply.
SANFOR-SET®: A trademark of Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., denoting a controlled standard of shrinkage performance originally developed for denims. Fabrics bearing this trademark will not shrink under home-wash, tumble-dry conditions because they have been subjected to a liquid ammonia treatment and compressive shrinkage.

SAPONIFICATION: Specifically in relation to manufactured fibers, saponification is the process of removing part or all of the groups from acetate or triacetate fiber, leaving regenerated cellulose.
SARAN FIBER: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 80% by weight of vinylidene chloride units (-CH2-CCl2-)
(FTC definition). Saran fiber has excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering and is used in lawn furniture, upholstery, and carpets.
SASE: Acronym for stress at specified elongation; the stress experienced by a yarn or cord at a given elongation.
SATEEN: A cotton fabric made in a satin weave.
SATIN WEAVE: One of the basic weaves, plain, satin, and twill. The face of the fabric consists almost completely of warp or filling floats produced in the repeat of the weave. The points of intersection are distributed evenly and widely separated as possible. Satin-weave fabric has a characteristic smooth, lustrous surface and has a considerably greater number of yarns in the set of threads, either warp or filling, that forms the face than in the other set.
SATURATION: 1. The maximum intensity or purity of a color. If the color is as brilliant as possible, it is at saturation; if the color is subdued or grayed, it is dull, weak, and low in intensity. 2. The upper limit concentration of a solute in a solvent, i.e., no more solute can be dissolved at a fixed temperature and pressure.
SATURATION BONDING: See BONDING, 2.
SATURATION VALUE: The maximum amount of dye that can be absorbed by a textile fiber under defined conditions.
SAXONY: 1. A high-grade fabric for coats, made from Saxony Merino wool. 2. A soft woolen with fancy yarn effects, used in sport-coat fabric. 3. A highly twisted worsted knitting yarn. 4. A term describing a cut-pile carpet having highly twisted, evenly sheared, medium-length pile yarns.
SALLOPED SELVAGE: A fabric defect consisting of an abrupt, narrow place along the selvage. Principal cause is the failure of the clip on the tenter frame to engage or hold the fabric.
SCHAPPE: A yarn from partly degummed silk waste.
SCORCHING: The tendering of a fiber surface by heat so as to change the color and texture of the surface.
SCOURING: An operation to remove the sizing and tint used on the warp yarn in weaving and, in general, to clean the fabric prior to dyeing.
SCREEN: 1. A hollow, cylindrical, coarse-mesh wire device used in pickers and certain openers to form the loose staple stock into a sheet, or lap. The screen is mounted horizontally on a shaft on which it revolves freely. 2. A stencil used in screen printing. It is made of fine cloth, usually of silk or nylon, finely perforated in areas to form a design and mounted on a frame. The paste containing the dye is forced through the perforations onto the fabric, leaving the design. A series of screens, one for each color, is used for multicolored designs. (Also see PRINTING.)
SCREEN PRINTING: See PRINTING.
SCREW FEEDS: Feed systems in which the action of the screw generates pressure that causes flow. The system usually consists of a container with a closely fitting screw unit.
SCREW MELTER: 1. Screw extruder in which frictional forces between the screw and the heated barrel contribute to rapid melting of solid polymer. This configuration is capable of high throughput. 2. System in which a screw feed is used to feed polymer to a melt grid and to maintain a constant pressure at the grid.
SCRIM: 1. A lightweight, open-weave, coarse fabric; the best qualities are made with two-ply yarns. Cotton scrim usually comes in white, cream, or ecru and is used for window curtains and as backing for carpets. 2. Fabric with open construction used as base fabric in the production of coated or laminated fabrics.
SCROOP: The sound of rustle or crunch that is characteristic of silk. Scroop is a natural property of silk, but may be induced in other fabrics to a degree by various treatments.
SCULPTURED: A term describing a carpet with areas of contrasting depth produced by mixing cut pile and loops.
SEAMING: Joining the overlap of two pieces of fabric, usually near their edges. SEAMLESS: A term that describes a tubular knit fabric without seams, e.g., seamless hosiery.
SEAM MARK: A particular type of pressure mark in the finished fabric. It is produced during finishing operations by the thickness of the seam used to join pieces for processing.
SEAM SLIPPAGE: A defect consisting of separated yarns occurring when sewn fabrics pull apart at the seams. Seam slippage is more prone to occur in smooth-yarn fabrics produced from manufactured filament yarns.
SEAM WELDING: Any stitchless procedure for joining fabrics based on the use of thermoplastic resins or the direct welding of thermoplastic materials. Seam welding is an alternative to conventional needle-and-thread seaming operations that is extremely popular in the nonwoven field.
SECANT MODULUS: The ratio of change in stress to change in strain between two points on a stress-strain diagram, particularly the points of zero stress and breaking stress.
SECONDARY BACKING: A layer of material, usually woven jute, polypropylene, vinyl, or latex foam, laminated to the underside of a carpet to improve body and dimensional stability.
SECONDARY COLORS: Green, orange, and violet, each of which is obtained by mixing two primary colors.
SECONDARY CREEP: The nonrecoverable component of creep. (Also see DELAYED DEFORMATION.)
SECOND-ORDER TRANSITION TEMPERATURE: The temperature at which the noncrystalline (amorphous) portions of polymer melt or become plastic. An inflection point or change is stress-strain properties occurs at this point; however, for most fibers, this change is small.
SECONDS: 1. Imperfect fabrics (woven or knitted) containing flaws in the weave, finish, or dyeing, and sold as “seconds.” 2. See YARN QUALITY.
SECTION BEAM: 1. A large, flanged roll upon which warp yarn is wound at the beam warper in preparation for slashing. 2. Small flanged or unflanged beams assembled side-by-side on the shaft of a warp beam for further processing.
SECTION MARK: A fabric defect consisting of marks running warpwise in an evenly repeating pattern, caused by the improper setting of sections in silk system (or indirect) warping.
SEERSUCKER: Lightweight fabric, made of cotton or manufactured fiber, having crinkled stripes made by weaving some of the warp threads slack and others tight. Woven seersucker is more expensive than imitations made by chemical treatment.
SELF-TWIST YARN: An inherently twist-stable, two-ply structure having a ply twist that is alternately S- and Z-directed along the yarn.
SELVAGE or SELVEDGE: The narrow edge of woven fabric that runs parallel to the warp. It is made with stronger yarns in a tighter construction than the body of the fabric to prevent raveling. A fast selvage encloses all or part of the picks, and a selvage is not fast when the filling threads are cut at the fabric edge after every pick.
SEQUESTRANT: Any compound that will inactivate a metallic ion by forming a water-soluble complex in which the metal is held in a nonionizable form. This results in prevention of the usual precipitation reactions of the metal.
SERGE: Any smooth-faced cloth made with a two-up and two-down twill weave.
SERGING: 1. Overcasting the cut edge of a fabric to prevent raveling. 2. Finishing the edge of a carpet by oversewing rather than binding. Generally, the sides of a carpet are serged and the ends bound.
SERICIN: Silk gum. The gelatinous protein that cements the fibroin filaments in a silk fiber. It is removed in the process called degumming.
SERVED YARN: In aerospace textiles, a reinforcing yarn such as graphite or glass around which two different yarns are wound, i.e., one in the Z direction and one in the S direction, etc., for protection or compaction of the yarn bundle.
SET MARK: A fabric defect consisting of narrow bars or bands across the full width of the fabric that may appear either as a tight, loose, or corduroy effect caused by loom stops improperly reset by the weaver. Set marks are sometimes caused by the weaver ripping out filling yarn and then not properly adjusting the pick wheel to obtain the proper relation between the fell of the cloth and the reed.
SET POINT: An input in process control that defines the desired value or range of values of the variable that is being controlled.
SET YARNS: False-twist yarns stabilized to produce bulk. SEWING THREAD: See THREAD.
SEYDEL CONVERTER: Tow-to-top processing equipment. Seydel combines the
prestretching and breaking process in one machine.
S-FINISHING: A finishing process applied to acetate and triacetate fabrics using a sodium hydroxide solution to give surface saponification; i.e., the fiber “skin” is converted to cellulose. It improves the hand and reduces the tendency to acquire a static charge.
SHADE BAR: See MIXED END and FILLING.
SHADECLOTH: A plain-weave cotton or linen fabric that is heavily sized and is often given oil treatment to make it opaque. The fabric is used for curtains and shades.
SHADED FILLING: A defect consisting of a bar running across the fabric caused by a difference in appearance of the filling yarn, and occurring at a quill change or knot.
SHADING: In cut-pile fabrics, an apparent change in color when the pile is bent, caused by differences in the way light is reflected off the bent fibers. This phenomenon is a characteristic of pile fabrics, not a defect.
SHADOW PRINTING: See PRINTING, Warp Printing.
SHAFT: 1. A term often used with reference to satins indicating the number of harnesses employed to produce the weave. 2. See HARNESS.
SHAFT MARK: A fabric defect characterized by a number of floating ends, usually caused by a broken harness strap on the loom.
SHAG CARPET: A loosely tufted carpet construction with cut pile 1 to 5 inches in length and with greater than normal spacing between tufts.
SHANTUNG: Plain-weave fabric with unevenly ribbed surface and crisp texture.
SHARKSKIN: 1. A hard-finished, twill fabric, woolen or worsted, made of simple weaves with a two-color arrangement of warp and filling yarns. 2. A plain-weave sportswear fabric made of dull-luster acetate or triacetate yarns.

SHEARING: ```A dry finishing operation in which projecting fibers are mechanically cut or trimmed from the face of the fabric. Woolen and worsted fabrics are almost always sheared. Shearing is also widely employed on other fabrics, especially on napped and pile fabrics where the amount varies according to the desired height of the nap or pile. For flat-finished fabrics such as gabardine, a very close shearing is given.
SHEATH-CORE FIBERS: Bicomponent fibers of either two polymer types, or two variants of the same polymer. One polymer forms a core and the other surrounds it as a sheath.
SHED: A path through and perpendicular to the warp in the loom. It is formed by raising some warp threads by means of their harnesses while others are left down. The shuttle passes through the shed to insert the filling.
SHEDDING: 1. The operation of forming a shed in weaving. 2. A loss of nominal length staple at any process in a staple yarn plant.
SHEERS: Transparent, lightweight fabrics of different constructions and yarns, especially those of silk and manufactured fibers. Examples are chiffons, some crepes, georgette, and voile.
SHIER: A short length of a single pick that appears to be cut out of the plane of the fabric.
SHINER: A relatively short streak caused by a lustrous section of a filament yarn. The principal cause is excessive tension applied to a yarn during processing.
SHIRE: See SHIER.
SHOE FOLD: A manner of folding fabric. The piece is folded from both ends into twelve or sixteen folds. The length of the fold depends upon the length of the piece.
SHOGGED STITCH: See RACKED STITCH.
SHORT-CUT STAPLE: Staple fiber less than 0.75-ingh long. Typically used in wet-laid nonwoven processes to make fabrics, or as reinforcement in plastics, concrete, asphalt, and other materials.
SHORT-LIQUOR DYEING: See DYEING.
SHOT: In woven pile floor coverings, the number of filling yarns per row of tufts.
SHREDDING: The separation of compressed fibers in pulp sheets prior to acetylation in acetate manufacture.
SHRINKAGE: Widthwise or lengthwise contraction of a fiber, yarn, or fabric, usually after wetting a redrying or on exposure to elevated temperature.
SHRINKAGE FORCE: The force generated by thermoplastic materials when they are subjected to elevated temperatures.
SHUTTLE: A boat-shaped device, usually made of wood with a metal tip that carries filling yarns through the shed in the weaving process. It is the most common weft-insertion device. The shuttle holds a quill, or pirn, on which the filling yarn is wound. It is equipped with an eyelet at one end to control rate. The filling yarn is furnished during the weaving operation.
SHUTTLE CHAFE MARK: A fabric defect that is usually seen as groups of short, fine lines across the fabric, often running for some distance in the piece and usually in the same area. Although these marks run in the direction of the filling, they are actually caused by the shuttle rubbing across and damaging the warp ends, producing a dull, chalky appearance.
SHUTTLELESS LOOM: A loom in which some device other then a shuttle is used for weft insertion. (Also see LOOM and WEFT INSERTION.)
SILICONE: One of a group of polymeric organic silicon compounds obtained as oils, greases, or plastics and applied to textile material as water- and heat-resistant lubricants and finishes.
SILK FIBER: A fine, strong, continuous filament produced by the larva of certain insects, especially the silkworm, when constructing its cocoons. The silkworm secretes the silk as a viscous fluid from two large glands in the lateral part of the body. The fluid is extruded through a common spinneret to form a double filament cemented together. This double silk filament, which is composed of the protein fibroin, ranges in size from 1.75 to 4.0 denier, depending upon the species of worm and the country of origin. The filament of the cocoon is softened and loosened by immersion in warm water and is then reeled off. Although raw silk contains 20 to 30% of sericin, or silk glue, and is harsh and stiff, silk is soft and white when all of the glue has been removed by steeping and boiling in soap baths. Ecru is harsher, as it has only about 5% of the sericin removed. Silk is noted for its strength, resiliency, and elasticity. The major sources of commercial silk are Japan and China.
SIMULATED SPUN YARNS: Filament yarns that have been modified to have aesthetics similar to those of spun yarns. Simulated spun yarn have looped or hairy surfaces.
SINGEING: The process of burning off protruding fibers from yarn or fabric by passing it over a flame or heated copper plates. Singeing gives the fabric a smooth surface and is necessary for fabrics that are to be printed and for fabrics where smooth finishes are desired.
SINGLE-KNIT FABRIC: Also called plain knit, a fabric constructed with one needle bed and one set of needles.
SINGLES YARN: The simplest strand of textile material suitable for operations such as weaving and knitting. A singles yarn may be formed from fibers with more or less twist; from filaments
with or without twist; from narrow strips of material such as paper, cellophane, or metal foil; or from monofilaments. When twist is present, it is all in the same direction. (Also see YARN.)
SINGLING: A yarn defect caused by the breaking of one or more strands in a plying operation with resulting unevenness in the finished product.
SINKER: In weave design, a blank square indicating a filling thread over a warp thread at the point of intersection.
SINTERING: Forming a bonded mass or fiber by heating the constituents of the mass or fiber without melting.
SISAL: A strong, white, bast fiber produced from leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in Central America, West Indies, and Africa. Sisal is used chiefly for cordage and twine.
SIZE: See SIZING.
SIZE MARK: A fabric defect that consists of a rough or frosted spin caused by uneven application or drying of the size.
SIZING: 1. A generic term for compounds that are applied to warp yarn to bind the fiber together and stiffen the yarn to provide abrasion resistance during weaving. Starch, gelatin, oil, wax, and manufactured polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene, polyacrylic acid, and polyacetates are employed. 2. The process of applying sizing compounds. (Also see SLASHING.) 3. The process of weighing sample lengths of yarn to determine the count.
SKEIN: A continuous strand of yarn or cord in the form of a collapsed coil. It may be of any specific length and is usually obtained by winding a definite number of turns on a reel under prescribed conditions. The circumference of the reel on which yarn is wound is usually 45 to 60 inches. (Also see HANK.)
SKEIN BREAK FACTOR: The comparative breaking load of a skein of yarn adjusted for the linear density of the yarn expressed in an indirect system. It is the product of the breaking load of the skein and the yarn number expressed in an indirect system (e.g., pounds times cotton count). A statement of the skein break factor must indicate the number or wraps in the skein, if this is not otherwise apparent. Without specifying the number of wraps, a statement of the skein break factor is meaningless.
SKEIN BREAKING TENACITY: The skein breaking load divided by the product of the yarn number in a direct numbering system and the number of strands placed under the tension (twice the number of wraps in the skein); preferably expressed in newtons per tex.

SKEIN DYEING: See DYEING.
SKEWNESS: The distance measured parallel to and along a selvage between the point at which a filling yarn meets this selvage and a perpendicular to the selvage from the point at which the same filling yarn meets the other selvage. Skewness may be expressed directly in inches or as a percentage of the width of the fabric at the point of measurement.
SLACK END: An end woven under insufficient tension.
SLACK FILLING: See SLACK PICK.
SLACK MERCERIZATION: A process for producing stretch in cellulosic fabrics. SLACK PICK: A single filling yarn woven under insufficient tension.
SLACK SELVAGE: A self-descriptive fabric defect caused by incorrect balance of cloth structure between the ground and selvage or by the selvage ends being woven with insufficient tension.
SLACK THREAD: See SLACK END. SLACK WARP: See SLACK END. SLAM-OFF: See SMASH.
SLASHER: A machine used to apply size to the warp ends, while transferring the warp yarns from section beams to the loom beam.
SLASHER SIZING: See SLASHING.
SLASHING: A process of sizing warp yarns on a slasher. (Also see SIZING, 1, and SLASHER.)
SLEAZY: Thin, lacking firmness, open-meshed; usually describes poor-grade fabrics.
SLEEVING: A braided, knit, or woven product or fabric in tubular or cylindrical form that is less than 4 inches in width (i.e., 8 inches in circumference).
SLEY: The number of warp yarns per inch in a woven cloth on or off the loom.
SLIDE WASTE: A yarn defect that is similar in appearance to a slub. It consists of a mass of fiber encircling the yarn end and can be slid freely along the end.
SLIPPAGE: Sliding or slipping of the filling threads over the warp ends (or vice versa), which leaves open spaces in the fabric. Slippage results from a loose weave or unevenly matched warp and filling.
SLIT-FILM YARN: Yarn of a flat, tape-like character produced by slitting an extruded film.
SLIT TAPE: A fabric, 12 inches or less in width, made by cutting wider fabric to the desired width. Slit tapes are made primarily of cotton, linen, jute, glass, or asbestos and are used principally for functional purposes.
SLIVER: A continuous strand of loosely assembled fibers without twist. Sliver is delivered by the card, the comber, or the drawing frame. The production of sliver is the first step in the textile operation that brings staple fiber into a form that can be drawn (or reduced in bulk) and eventually twisted into a spun yarn.
SLIVER KNITTING: Circular knitting coupled with the drawing-in of a sliver by the needles to produce a pile-like fabric, usually for high-pile coats or heavy linings.
SLOUGHED FILLING: See LOOPED FILLING.
SLUB: A yarn defect consisting of a lump or thick place on the yarn caused by lint or small lengths of yarn adhering to it. Generally, in filament yarn, a slub is the result of broken filaments that have stripped back from the end to which they are attached.
SLUBBER: A machine used in textile processes prior to spinning that reduces the sliver and inserts the first twist.
SLUBBING: The product of the slubber, it is the intermediate stage between sliver and roving. SLUBBING FRAME: See SLUBBER.
SLUB CATCHER: A mechanical or electronic device designed to aid in the detection and removal of slubs or neps in yarns, usually during coning.
SLUB YARN: Any type of yarn that is irregular in diameter; the irregularity may be purposeful or the result of error. (Also see NOVELTY YARN, NUB YARN, and SLUB.)
SLUG: A thick place in a yarn or a piece of lint entangled in yarn, cord, or fabric.
SLURRY: A watery or solvent suspension; e.g., titanium dioxide mixed with water for addition to polymers.
SMASH: 1. A relatively large hole in fabric characterized by many broken warp ends and floating picks. One cause is the breaking of one or both harness straps, permitting the harness to drop and break out warp ends. 2. The breaking of many yarn ends in a beaming operation, usually as a result of mechanical failures.
SMOKE CHAMBER TEST: See FLAMMABILITY TESTS. SMOULDERING: A slow, flameless, smoking burning of a fabric.
SNAG: A pulled thread in knits. It is in the wale direction in warp knits and in the course direction in weft knits.
SNARL: A short length of warp or filling yarn that has twisted on itself because of lively twist or insufficient tension. The snarling may occur during or prior to the weaving process.
SNOW BALL: See BALLING UP.
SOAKING: Treatment of rayon yarns in a lubricating and sizing solution preparatory to hard twisting.
SOAP: The detergent obtained by the formation of a sodium or potassium salt of a fatty acid or mixture of fatty acids.
SOFTENER: 1. A product designed to impart a soft mellowness to the fabric. Examples are glucose, glycerine, tallow, or any one of a number of quaternary ammonium compounds. 2. A substance that reduces the hardness of water by removing or sequestering the calcium and magnesium ions. 3. A substance used to reduce friction during mixing and processing when dry powders are added to polymers.
SOFTENING POINT: The temperature at which substances without a sharp melting point change from viscous to plastic flow.
SOIL BURIAL TEST: A test of resistance of textile material to certain microorganisms present in soil. The samples are buried in soil for an extended period, then removed and measured for strength loss.
SOILING: The staining or smudging of textile materials resulting from the deposit of dirt, oil undesirable dye, etc.
SOLID-STATE POLYMERIZATION: Reaction of the active end-groups within a solid polymer. It may be intentional as in heating and drying nylon 66 to increase the final degree of polymerization; or it may be undesirable such as that which occurs in fibers under high-temperature conditions in tires that leads to increased degree of polymerization, cross-linking, and subsequent brittleness and loss of strength.
SOLUBLE: Capable of being dissolved, i.e., passing into solution. SOLUTION-DYED: See DYEING, Mass-Colored.
SOLVENT DYEING: See DYEING.
SOLVENT SPINNING: See SPINNING, Dry Spinning.
SOURING: Any treatment of textile materials in dilute acid. Its purpose is the neutralization of any alkali that is present.
SPACE DYEING: See DYEING.
SPANDEX FIBER: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane (FTC definition).
CHARACTERISTICS: Spandex is lighter in weight, more durable, and more supple than conventional elastic threads and has between two and three times their restraining power. Spandex is extruded in a multiplicity of fine filaments which immediately form a monofilament. It can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking and still recover instantly to its original length. It does not suffer deterioration from oxidation as is the case with fine sizes of rubber thread, and it is not damaged by body oils, perspiration, lotions, or detergents.
END USES: Spandex is used in foundation garments, bathing suits, hose, and webbings.
SPECIFIC GRAVITY: Ratio of the mass of a material to the mass of an equal volume of water at 4°C. The range for modern fibers is not too great and is dependent to some extent on the liquid used as an immersant in measurements, because of fiber swelling and of possible absorption of liquid into fiber voids. (Also see DENSITY.)
SPECK: 1. A contaminant in polymer such as gels, metal, or dirt that shows up as a dark spot. 2. A small particle of foreign substance that has not been removed from the stock before spinning.
SPECKING: The removal of burrs, knots, and other objects that impair the finished appearance of woolens and worsteds.
SPECKY: A term used to describe dyed woolen fabric with specks of undyed vegetable matter on the face. The specks can be removed by carbonizing or covered by speck dyeing.
SPECTROGRAPH: A spectroscope equipped with a camera or some other device for recording the spectrum. (Also see SPECTROSCOPE.)
SPECTROMETER: An instrument for identifying and comparing materials by the dispersing of light and the study of the spectra formed.
SPECTROPHOTOMETER: An instrument used to measure the transmission or reflectance of light as a function of wavelength.
SPECTROSCOPE: An instrument for forming a spectrum for visual examination. SPECTROSCOPY: The identification of materials by the analysis of their spectra.
SPHERULITE: A common form of polymer crystallization from melts or concentrated solutions. These crystallites show a radial symmetry from a central point and have a distinctive maltese cross pattern of birefringence under the polarizing microscope.
SPINDLE: A slender, upright, rotating rod on a spinning frame, roving frame, twister, winder, or similar machine. A bobbin is placed on the spindle to receive the yarn as the spindle is rotated at high speed.
SPIN-DRAWING: 1. The reduction of roving during spinning by a roller drafting mechanism similar to that used on the roving frame. 2. Combined spinning and drawing in one operation in melt-spun fibers.
SPIN FINISH: See LUBRICANT.
SPIN MULTIPLIER: See TWIST MULTIPLIER.
SPINNERET: A metal disc containing numerous minute holes used in manufactured fiber extrusion. The spinning solution or melted polymer is forced through the holes to form the fiber filaments.
SPINNING: The process or processes used in the production of single yarns or of fabrics generated directly from polymer.
1. Yarn from Staple Fiber: The formation of a yarn by a combination of drawing or drafting and twisting prepared strands of fibers, such as rovings.
2. Filament Yarn: In the spinning of manufactured filaments, fiber-forming substances in the plastic or molten state, or in solution, are forced through the fine orifices in a metallic plate called a spinneret, or jet, at a controlled rate. The solidified filaments are drawn-off by rotating rolls, or godets, and wound onto bobbins or pirns. There are several methods of spinning manufactured filaments:
Dry Spinning: The process in which a solution of the fiber-forming substance is extruded in a continuous stream into a heated chamber to remove the solvent, leaving the solid filament, as in the manufacture of acetate.
Gel Spinning: A spinning process in which the primary mechanism of solidification is the gelling of the polymer solution by cooling to form a gel filament consisting of precipitated polymer and solvent. Solvent removal is accomplished following solidification by washing in a liquid bath. The resultant fibers can be drawn to give a product with high tensile strength and modulus.
Melt Spinning: The process in which the fiber-forming substance is melted and extruded into air or other gas, or into a suitable liquid, where it is cooled and solidified, as in the manufacture of polyester or nylon.
Phase-Separation Spinning: Extrusion of polymer and solvent at high temperature into a cooling zone. During the cooling process, a phase separation occurs, usually accompanied by crystallization of the solvent. Solvent can be removed before or after drawing.
Reaction Spinning:
Process in which an initial prepolymer is formed and then extruded into a reagent bath where polymerization and
filament formation occur simultaneously. Spandex fibers can be made by this process.
Wet Spinning: The process in which a solution of the fiber-forming substance is extruded into a liquid coagulating medium where the polymer is regenerated, as in the manufacture of viscose or cuprammonium rayon.
3. Yarn from Leaf and Bast Fiber: In the manufacture of leaf and bast fiber yarns, the terms “wet spinning” and “dry spinning” refer to the spinning of fibers in the wet state and in the air-dry state, respectively.
4. Yarn from Filament Tow: The formation of a yarn from filament tow by a combination of cutting or breaking, drafting, and twisting in a single series of operations. Also known as converting.
5. Nonwoven Fabric: Fabrics can be produced directly from molten or dissolved fiber-forming substances by several continuous processes:
Flash Extrusion: The process in which a fiber-forming substance in a volatile solvent is extruded from a high-temperature, high-pressure environment into lower temperature and pressure conditions, causing the solvent to rapidly evaporate, leaving a lacy, net-like fabric.
Spray Spinning: See SPUN-BONDED PRODUCTS.
SPINNING FRAME: A machine used for spinning staple yarn. It drafts the roving to the desired size, inserts twist, and winds the yarn onto a bobbin. The term is generally used to indicate a ring spinning frame, although it does cover flyer spinning and cap spinning on the worsted system.
SPINNING SOLUTION: A solution of a fiber-forming polymer (e.g., cellulose acetate) in a suitable condition to be extruded by either dry spinning or wet spinning.
SPINNING TWIST: The twist added to yarn during spinning to give it strength and other desired characteristics.
SPIRAL YARNS: Specialty yarn made by winding heavier, slackly twisted yarn around a finer yarn with a hard twist to give a slubby appearance.
SPLICING: 1. The joining of two ends of yarn or cordage. There are several methods used, e.g., by interweaving the strands, by the use of knots, by tapering, lapping, and cementing the ends, etc. 2. A method of reinforcing knits, e.g., the heels and toes of hosiery, by introducing an additional yarn for strength.
SPLINTER: Two or more staple fibers adhering together, causing a stiff cluster that resists pulling apart in normal processing, and reacting in the yarn spinning process similarly to higher than nominal denier fiber.
SPLINTER COUNT: A measure of the number of coalesced fibers, mealy particles, or other such matter in staple fiber.
SPLIT: See REED.
SPLIT-DRAFT METIER: An extrusion cabinet for dry spinning in which the drying medium (hot air) is introduced between the jet and the yarn outlet and flows in both directions.
SPLIT END: 1. A defect in fabric caused by breakage of some of the singles yarns in a plied warp yarn. 2. A defect in manufactured filament yarn caused by breakage of some of the filaments.
SPLIT-FLOW METIER: See SPLIT-DRAFT METIER.
SPLITTING: 1. In the processing of tow, a defect in which the integrity of opened tow is disturbed by separation or division into two or more segments longitudinally. Splitting can be continuous or intermittent, long or short term. 2. In slashing, the separation of sized yarn ends before takeup on the slasher beam.
SPOOL: A flanged wooden or metal cylinder upon which yarn, thread, or wire is wound. The spool has an axial hole for a pin or spindle used in winding. (Also see BEAM.)
SPOT BONDING: See BONDING, 2, Point Bonding. SPRAY BONDING: See BONDING, 2.
SPRAY SPINNING: See SPUN-BONDED PRODUCTS. SPREAD STITCH: See PINHOLE.
SPRING NEEDLE: A knitting machine needle with a long, flexible hook, or beard, that allows the hook to be closed by an action known as pressing so that the loops can be cast off. The hook springs back to its original position when the presser bar is removed. (Also see LATCH NEEDLE.)
SPUN-BONDED PRODUCTS: Nonwoven fabrics formed by filaments that have been extruded, drawn, then laid on a continuous belt. Bonding is
accomplished by several methods such as by hot roll calendering or by passing the web through a saturated-steam chamber at an elevated pressure.
SPUN-DYED: See DYEING, Mass-Colored.
SPUN FABRIC: A fabric made from staple fibers that may contain one or a blend of two or more fiber types.
SPUNLACED FABRIC: A nonwoven fabric produced by entangling fibers in a repeating pattern to form a strong fabric free of binders.
SPUNLIKE FILAMENT YARNS: See SIMULATED SPUN YARNS. SPUN SILK: See SCHAPPE.
SPUN YARN: 1. A yarn consisting of staple fibers usually bound together by twist. 2. A melt-spun fiber before it is drawn.
SQUARE CONSTRUCTION: See BALANCED CLOTH.
SQUEEGEE: The portion of a screen-printing apparatus consisting of a blade that forces the print paste through the screen onto the fabric.
SQUEEZE ROLLS: Rolls used to apply pressure for removal of water or chemicals from fabric.
STABILITY: A term used to describe the tendency of a fiber or fabric to return to its original shape after being subjected to external influence, such as tension, heat, or chemicals.
STABILIZED FIBER: Fiber that is heat or chemically treated to set the fiber properties and prevent deterioration, shrinkage, etc. (Also see HEAT STABILIZED, HEAT SETTING and UV ABSORBER.)
STAIN: See FINISHING SPOT.
STAINING: The undesired pickup of color by a fabric: (1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid medium that contains dyestuffs or coloring material not intended for coloring the fabric; or (2) by direct contact with other dyed material from which color is transferred by bleeding or sublimation.
STAINLESS-STEEL FIBER: Textile fibers made of stainless steel. Steel fibers are used for antistatic purposes in carpets, for tire belt construction, and for high-temperature or heat-resistant end uses.
STANDARD ATMOSPHERE: Air maintained at 70°F (21°C) and 65% relative humidity. When international testing is involved, a standard temperature of 20°C or, by agreement, 27°C
may be used. Special humidity and temperature conditions are sometimes prescribed for the testing of certain textiles for specific service predictions, resistance to water or biological action, etc.
STANDARD CONDITION: Standard condition is that reached by a specimen when it is in moisture equilibrium with a standard atmosphere. Standard condition is seldom realized in practice since laboratory atmospheres are continually fluctuating between narrow limits, and it is not practical to wait for the attainment of moisture equilibrium which would require several days or more for tightly wound samples of high regain material. Practically, specimens are brought to moisture equilibrium in the standard atmosphere for testing as defined in these definitions. The term “standard condition” should not be used as a synonym for the concept of “standard atmosphere.”
STANDARD DEVIATION: A measure of the dispersion of a set of numbers based on the difference of the individual numbers from the mean.
STANDARD MOISTURE REGAIN: Accepted moisture allowance for textile materials expressed in percentages of their dry weight.
STANDING WIRE: A broad term describing fixed rods or strips extending through the loom reed, that control the height of the pile in a woven pile fabric.
STAPLE: Natural fibers or cut lengths from filaments. The staple length of natural fibers varies from less than 1 inch as with some cotton fibers to several feet for some hard fibers. Manufactured staple fibers are cut to a definite length, from 8 inches down to about 1-1/2 inches (occasionally down to 1 inch), so that they can be processed on cotton, woolen, or worsted yarn
spinning systems. The term staple (fiber) is used in the textile industry to distinguish natural or cut length manufactured fibers from filament.
STAPLE FABRIC: See SPUN FABRIC. STAPLE FIBER: See STAPLE.
STAPLE PROCESSING: The conversion of staple into spun yarns suitable in evenness, size, twist, and strength for use in the weaving or knitting of fabrics. (Also see TEXTILE PROCESSING.)
STAPLE YARN: See SPUN YARN. STARCH LUMP: See HARD SIZE. START-UP MARK: See SET MARK.
STATIC: An accumulation of negative or positive electricity on the surface of fibers or fabrics because of inadequate electrical dissipation during processing. Static results in an electrical attraction or repulsion of the fibers relative to themselves, to machine parts, or to other materials, preventing the fiber from traveling in a normal path in the process.
STATIC ADHESION: In tire cord, the measurement of the strength of a cord-to-rubber bond under static conditions or very low strain rate.
STATIC CRACK: See SHIER.
STEAM CHEST: A steam-heated cabinet used in manufactured fiber production. Usually refers to the heated cabinet in which spin-drawing is done or to the cabinet around a stuffer-box crimper.
STENTER: See TENTER FRAME.
STICKER: 1. A distortion in the weave characterized by tight and slack places in the same warp yarns. The principal causes are rolled ends on the beam, warp ends restricted by broken filament slubs, and knots catching at lease rods, drop wires, heddles, or reeds. (Also see DRAW-BACK.) 2. See HARD SIZE.
STIFFNESS: The property of a fiber or fabric to resist bending or to carry a load without deformation. It is based on the fiber modulus.
STITCH BONDING: See BONDING, 2.
STITCHING: The process of passing a fiber or thread through the thickness of fabric layers to secure them. In composite manufacture, stitching is used to make preforms or to improve damage tolerance of complex-shaped parts.
STOCK DYEING: See DYEING.
STOCKINETTE: A knit fabric in tubular or flat form made with a plain stitch from yarns of wool, cotton, manufactured fibers, or a combination of these fibers. Stockinette fabrics are used
for underwear, industrial applications, and other purposes. In heavier constructions, dyed and napped stockinette finds apparel uses. (Also spelled stockinet.)
STOLL-QUARTERMASTER UNIVERSAL WEAR TESTER: A versatile testing apparatus for measuring wear resistance of fabrics, yarns, thread, etc. It can be equipped with either of two testing heads, one for testing abrasion resistance of flat surfaces and the other for testing resistance to flexing and abrasion. (See diagram.)
STOP MOTION: Any device that automatically stops a textile machine’s operation on the occurrence of a yarn break, a high defect count, etc.
STRAIN RECOVERY CURVE: See TENSILE HYSTERESIS CURVE.
STRAND: 1. A single fiber, filament, or monofilament. 2. An ordered assemblage of textile fibers having a high ratio of length to diameter and normally used as a unit; includes slivers, roving, single yarns, plies yarns, cords, braids, ropes, etc.
STRAW: A general term for plant fibers obtained from stems, stalks, leaves, bark, grass, etc. They are made into hats, bags, shoes, mats, etc., by weaving, plaiting, or braiding.
STREAK: A discoloration (rust, oil, dye, grease, soap, etc.) extended as an irregular stripe in the cloth.
STRENGTH COUNT PRODUCT: See BREAK FACTOR.
STRESS: The resistance to deformation developed within a specimen subjected to an external force. Typical examples are tensile stress, shear stress, or compressive stress. Stress usually reaches a maximum at the time of rupture. When a textile material is subjected to a stress below that causing rupture, the stress gradually decreases or decays with time.
STRESS-STRAIN CURVE: A graphical representation, showing the relationship between the change in dimension (in the direction of the applied stress) of the specimen from the application of an external stress, and the magnitude of that stress. In tension tests of textile materials, the stress can be expressed either in units of force per unit cross-sectional area, or in force per unit linear density of the original specimen, and the strain can be expressed either as a fraction or as a percentage of the original specimen length. (Also see LOAD-DEFORMATION CURVE.)
STRETCH BREAKING: In conversion of tow-to-top, fibers are hot stretched and broken rather than cut to prevent some of the damage done by cutting.
STRETCH GROWTH: See SECONDARY CREEP.
STRETCH SPINNING: A term used in the manufacture of rayon. Rayon filaments are stretched while moist and before final coagulation to decrease their diameter and increase their strength.
STRETCH YARN: See TEXTURED YARNS.
STRIATIONS: Streaks or bands or various nature in fibers or fabrics.
STRIÉ: A term describing any cloth having irregular stripes or streaks of practically the same color as the background.
STRINGUP: See THREADUP.
STRINGY SELVAGE: See SLACK SELVAGE.
STRIPPING: 1. A chemical process for removing color from dyed cloth by the use of various chemicals. Stripping is done when the color is unsatisfactory and the fabric is to be redyed. 2. The physical process of removing fiber that in embedded in the clothing of a card. 3. See DEGUMMING.
STUFFER BOX: A mechanism for crimping in which a fiber bundle (e.g., tow or filament yarn) is jammed against itself, causing it to crimp. By the suitable application of heat (usually wet steam) and pressure to the stuffed tow, a high and permanent crimp can be forced into the bundle. (Also see TEXTURING, Stuffer Box Method.)
STUFFERS: Extra yarns running in the warp direction through a woven fabric to increase the fabric’s strength and weight.
S TWIST: See TWIST, DIRECTION OF.
STYRENE: An unsaturated hydrocarbon, (C6H5-CH = CH2), prepared from coal tar. Polystyrene is a colorless, transparent plastic used for molding various articles for insulation, transparent parts, radio parts, etc.
SUBLIMATION: A phase change in which a substance, such as a dye, passes directly from the solid to the vapor phase without passing through a liquid phase. This process is the basis for transfer printing.
SUBLISTATIC® PROCESS: A method of applying print designs to fabrics containing manufactured fibers by paper-transfer techniques. Developed by Sublistatic Corp. (Also see PRINTING, Heat Transfer Printing.)
SUBSTRATE: Fabric to which coatings or other fabrics are applied. It can be of woven, knit, nonwoven, or weft-insertion construction. Generally, substrate properties are dependent both on fiber type and fabric construction. Usually the fabric is scoured, heat-set, and otherwise finished prior to coating or bonding. Many smooth-surfaced manufactured fiber fabrics require impregnation with a latex prior to coating to ensure adequate adhesion.
SUBSURFACE STABILIZATION FABRICS: See GEOTEXTILES.
SUEDE FABRIC: Woven or knitted cloth finished to resemble suede leather, usually by napping, shearing, and sanding techniques.
SULFAR FIBER: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chain, synthetic polysulfide in which at least 85% of the sulfide (-S-) linkages are attached to two aromatic rings (FTC definition). The raw material is polyphenylene sulfide which is melt spun and processed into staple fibers. These are high performance fibers with excellent resistance to strong chemicals and high temperature. They show excellent strength retention in harsh environments; are flame retardant; and are non-conducting. They find use in high-temperature filter fabrics, electrical insulation, coal-fired boiler bag houses, papermaker’s felt, and high-performance composites.
SULFATE PULP: See KRAFT PULPS.
SULFONATED: A term describing a material that has been reacted with sulfonic acid, usually to impart solubility, dyeability with cationic dyes, or other properties.
SULFONIC ACID: Any acid containing the sulfonic group, (SO3H). SULFUR DYES: See DYES.
SUPERABSORBENT: A material that can absorb many times the amount of liquid ordinarily absorbed by cellulosic materials such as wood pulp, cotton, and rayon.
SURAH: A soft fabric of silk or filament polyester or acetate, usually a twill and often woven in a plaid. Surah is used for ties, mufflers, blouses, and dresses.
SURFACE CHARGE: The electrical charge on the surface of a substance.
SURFACE ENERGY: 1. The free energy of the surfaces at an interface that arises because of differences in the tendencies of each phase to attract its own molecules. 2. The work that would be required to increase the surface area of a liquid by one unit area.
SURFACE TENSION: Intermolecular forces acting on the molecules at the free surface of a liquid tend to minimize the surface area of the liquid and give the surface properties similar to those of an elastic skin under tension. When two dissimilar liquids make contact, these intermolecular forces will cause the shape of the interface to change until the potential energy of the entire molecular system is at a minimum.
SURFACTANT: A surface-active agent, i.e., a product that acts by modifying the surface or boundary between two phases.
SWATCH: A piece of fabric used as a representative sample of any fabric.
SWELLING: In textile usage, expanding of a fiber caused by the influence of a solvent or chemical agent. A property often used to facilitate dyeing.
SYNDIOTACTIC POLYMER: A polymer structure in which the atoms that are not part of the backbone chain are distributed in a symmetrical and recurring manner above and
below the backbone chain when the latter is in a single plane. (Also see ATACTIC POLYMER, ISOTACTIC POLYMER, and TACTIC POLYMER.)
SYNTHETIC FIBER: Another term for manufactured fiber.

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